Page 638 - scvhs19901997minutes
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Remove the top of the grease fittings and clean out the galleries. Clean and polish the crank pins
              at this time. Clean and polish the main rod as long as you are in the cleanfog mode. Use a die
              penetrant to inspect the ends of the rods for cracks. Clean and polish  the crank pins at this time.
              The pin dope fittings wiU require cleaning also.

              The lead truck requires some attention. While it looks to be in good condition the oil holes may
  n           have become filled with dirt and sundry over the years. Clean out the oil ways and inspect for
  lJ          defects and cracks. Make sure that all the necessary cotter pins are in good order and in place.
              Check the cellars and repack as necessary.

              After you repair the damaged spring packs you can reassembly the spring rigging. Also, put up
              the shoes, wedges, and binders. Adjust the wedges to where they were before removal. Replace
  r 1         with their original shims. It is important that you Jevel the engine side to side and front to back.
  I  f
  j  !
  u           This is typically done with shims under the spring hangers. Do this job on Jevel track.
              Reassemble the brake rigging that was taken down to facilitate the repair of the journals and
              inspect the entire system to ensure that all cotter pins are in place and that there are no defects in
              the gear.

              Paint the frame and the drivers. Paint the lead truck. Put up the side rods.


              Although there is little that can be seen for all the work done to accomplish this portion of the job
              it is the foundation that all other work hangs on.  The engine should now rolJ easily and begjn to
              look fresh.


              The next goaJ is to complete the machinery repair.  Clean the pistons and valves and brighten the
              rings with an abrasive cloth. The steam ports and passages need lo be cleaned out as best as
              possible. Looking at the bores I would suggest that you can reassemble the pistons and valves
              and operate for a time. If you can find a company that can hone the bores in the field it would be
              prudent to do so at this time. Before you go out on the road you may wish to bore the cylinders
              and the valve cages. This is a job that can be accomplished after you have shown that the engine
              can run. There is a segment of a piston ring missing. I suggest that you move the gap to the top of
              the piston and pin it in place with a pair of copper pins. Before putting up the cylinder covers
              replace all of the studs. If the gasket under the head is copper anneal the ring before assembly.
              Put up the rear heads and the guides. Stretch a wire through the center of the bore and check for
              the guide to be parallel. Shim as necessary.

  l           Clean and ac;semble the cross head. Check that the brasses on the small end of the main rod fit
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              the wrist pin properly and the finishes are acceptable. If the pin or brasses require replacement do
  !           so at this time. Check the slipper brasses cracks or excessive wear.  Clean the socket that the
  I  .
  t__         piston rod fits into and inspect the key. It is imperative that the key does not bottom out on the
              slot in the piston rod a~ this wiU allow the rod to work. Also, clean the taper on the piston rod.
              When the piston rod is assembled to the crosshead it needs to be driven up hard.

              The piston rods and valve stems run in mechanical packings. For efficient operation the rods and
              stems need to be smooth and round. This can be accomplished by hard chroming and grinding or



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